Chinese Watches: to Buy or Not to Buy?
I’ll be honest—I own a few Chinese watches, and I generally enjoy them. They’ve found their place in my collection for a number of reasons, whether it's their affordability, interesting designs, or simply the fact that they’re great for everyday wear without too much worry. But there’s more to these timepieces than just being a budget-friendly option. With the rise of Chinese watch movements like the Seagull, express shippers like Temu and AliExpress, and the ongoing conversation around homages and fakes, there’s a lot to unpack. So, should you buy a Chinese watch?
One of the biggest selling points of Chinese watches is the Seagull movement. For those who aren’t familiar, Seagull is a Chinese company that’s been around since the 1950s and has gained a reputation for producing reliable, affordable mechanical movements. The Seagull ST19, for example, is a hand-wound chronograph movement that’s found in a lot of Chinese watches. It’s based on a design by the Swiss company Venus, and while it might not have the prestige of Swiss or Japanese movements, it’s surprisingly well-made and accurate for the price. If you’re looking for an entry point into mechanical watches without breaking the bank, a Seagull-powered watch might just be the way to go.
Then there’s the convenience factor. With platforms like Temu and AliExpress, getting your hands on a Chinese watch is easier than ever. These express shippers have streamlined the process, offering a massive selection of watches at prices that are hard to beat. Sure, shipping times can vary, and the quality of customer service might not be on par with more established retailers, but for the most part, these platforms make it incredibly accessible to pick up a new timepiece. Just be prepared for the occasional surprise when it comes to quality or delivery times (such as my Winner that came with a power reserve dial but no complication).
When it comes to wearing a beater, a Chinese watch is often my go-to. A “beater,” for those who aren’t familiar with the term, is a watch you wear when you’re doing something that might be tough on a more expensive or delicate timepiece. Think yard work, hiking, or even just running errands. Chinese watches are perfect for this role because they offer decent build quality at a fraction of the cost of more recognized brands. If something happens to it, you’re not out a significant amount of money. And let’s face it—sometimes you just want a watch that you can wear without a second thought.
But let’s address the elephant in the room: homages and fakes. The Chinese watch industry is known for producing a lot of homages—watches that take heavy design inspiration from more famous, often expensive, models. While some enthusiasts appreciate the homage as a way to get the look of a luxury watch without the price tag, others see it as a form of intellectual theft. Fakes, on the other hand, are outright counterfeits, meant to deceive buyers into thinking they’re getting the real deal. This is where the waters get murky. Personally, I stay away from fakes, but I do have a couple of homages in my collection (Pagani Design, for example, does a great job of walking the line). It’s a contentious issue, and whether you’re okay with homages or not is a personal choice.
Read about Homage and Fakes here
On a larger scale, the rise of Chinese watches is part of a broader trend in the industry. In the past decade, China has become a major player in the global watch market, not just as a producer of low-cost pieces but also as a source of innovation and new brands. Companies like Pagani Design and San Martin have made names for themselves with well-built, stylish watches that hold their own against much more expensive competitors. This shift has made it clear that Chinese watchmaking is evolving, and it’s no longer just about producing cheap knock-offs.
That said, it’s important to go into buying a Chinese watch with your eyes open. Quality can be hit or miss, especially at the lower end of the market. It’s always worth doing your research—check reviews, watch unboxings, and make sure you know what you’re getting into. There are gems to be found, but there are also plenty of duds. If you’re willing to put in a bit of effort, you can find a Chinese watch that offers great value for money.
In the end, whether or not to buy a Chinese watch comes down to what you’re looking for in a timepiece. If you want a reliable, well-crafted mechanical watch at a reasonable price, the Seagull movement is a solid option. If you’re after a beater, or just want to expand your collection without spending too much, platforms like Temu and AliExpress have you covered. But if you’re looking for a watch with the prestige and heritage of a Swiss or Japanese brand, you might be disappointed.
For me, Chinese watches are a fun and affordable way to explore different styles and movements. They’re not for everyone, and they’re certainly not going to replace the more established pieces in my collection, but they have their place. Whether you’re new to watches or a seasoned collector, they’re worth considering—just be sure to know what you’re getting into.
So, to buy or not to buy? If you’re open to the idea of owning a watch that’s more about function and affordability than brand name and heritage, I’d say go for it. Just remember: like with anything, you get what you pay for. But sometimes, what you pay for is exactly what you need.
